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Maurizio Anzeri
Artist Analysis:
Maurizio Anzeri:
He is an Italian contemporary artist who makes portraits by sewing into vintage photographs. He was born in 1969 in Loano, Italy. He now lives and works in London. He works with a wide range of media: sculpture, drawing, photography, and more. Anzeri attended Camber Well College of Arts and received a Bachelor of Arts Degree. He then went on to complete a Master’s in Fine Art Sculpture. He is a well renowned artist whose work is often utilised in the GCSE Art curriculum. In his work, he uses antiquated pictures he found and transforms them into canvasses. Maurizio Anzeri is often regarded as a pioneer in the art of embroidery on old photos. He was inspired by images of his relative mending fishing nets in Italy and due to this, he wanted to explore his family history. Embroidery was chosen as it was a highly expressive tool for his work. Design boom Architecture and Design Magazine said in an article published in 2012, “Anzeri’s elaborate needle-work set against somber backgrounds results in sharp juxtaposition, and despite the history of both the technique and the images used, he produces work which treads new ground.” He has exhibited his work at The Saatchi Gallery, which received large coverage and significant attention from the media. It was an “explosion of new and vigorous forms which demonstrate the strength of contemporary art.” Rewards include the 2010 Vauxhall Collective Prize for Fine Art. Many people see this artist’s work as daring and bold.
Looking at his work, I am especially struck by his use of bold colours and unconventional designs. I think the way he creates different images in his embroidery evokes a lot of emotion. When seeing each image, they seem like costumes in a sense protecting the person in the image. On the other hand, each piece of his work is striking as the contrast between the black and white aged photographs and the coloured thread used makes the meaning behind those images more impactful.
When talking about the photography behind his work, Maurizio explained that “he is more interested in its use as an object than its process.”. He believes that when capturing a moment in a photograph, it is truly fascinating. Maurizio explained that he doesn’t regard the old pictures used as restoring something from the past, “I don’t want to be nostalgic when I work on them, to me they become very present.” He believes that what makes his artwork work, is that, “the image and the embroidery at the top feed each other”. Looking at the embroidery aspects, Aniza regards it as feeding another dimension and that the action of puncturing the image with the needle, “is an action of penetration”. In the past people have told him is that the characteristics of his work covers when there is nothing to cover.
I analysed this piece of work because I was struck by how captivating the composition was. To begin with, when taking this image, Aniza has used a highly emotive pose to provoke and enhance the effect on the audience. The lighting used was most definitely a ring light or concentrated light from the front as certain parts of the body are specifically highlighted. A medium angle is used and the body is not cropped out of the image. This is very specific and a common characterisation of his work. A wide aperture is often utilised in his work, as the lower the f-stop, the more light is let into the cameras. This image in particular has a high light concentration. It is also quite highly exposed, which means that the image is a lot lighter. In contrast some of the older photographs used have a higher f-stop and a lower exposure, because the cameras used at the time did not have a wide range of aperture settings. His images are frequently monochromatic, which means that they have been extremely desaturated. In terms of the sewing, Maurizio Aniza has used it to enhance the expression shown in the image. The arrangement of it emphasises the mouth and eyes some of the most expressive parts of this image.

Artist Gallery:

Photoshoot Plan:

For my exploration of Maurizio Anzeri, I have made a photoshoot plan. I am going to take three photoshoots and for my first developments, I am going to use old photos. For my second developments, I am going to take photos of people around me and have them pose dramatically. I need to purchase or find a white background in order to shoot my work. I have drawn here a portrait of a man. This drawing represents the photographs I will be using as edits and sewing over. The other drawing shows Maurizio Anzeri's work on sewing and drawing legs. These are similar to the images that Maurizio Anzeri sews over. I use drawings to show what I hope my composition will look like or to plan which type of image I want to sew over and include in my study of this artist's work.

Contact Sheet:


Although I did not take the images of the people I am going to sew over, I still decided to make a contact sheet. For both my first and second developments, I used photographs from my grandparents youth. These include images of my Grandma's university group. I could possibly create a series out of these images. On the other hand, there are portraits of people in my family that are large enough for me to be able to create more intricate patterns and designs through sewing. I have used crosses and circles to choose which of these photos I would like to go onto edit. I have used an aperture and f-stop of 1.8, which helps to blur the background and allow the image to focus on specific parts of the photo rather than the whole composition. This is achieved through the wider lens which then can let more light in the lens and allow better focus. To heighten this affect I use an ISO of 32.
First Developments:

This artist's work doesn't require a lot of editing as majority of the work was completed when sewing. Each individual edit took me from 30 minutes to 2 hours. For my first developments, I have recreated Maurizio Anzeri's project on old photos. Similar to him, I have added coloured threads and designs to emphasise certain parts of the image. Black and white images can seem mundane and sometimes dull so through sewing I can add life or meaning to the composition. My main aim through doing this is to add character to the photographs. For example, in the top left image, I used the colour red to imply youthfulness and liveliness whilst creating a spiral pattern because it commonly represents the cycle of life: birth, growth and re incarnation. The subject of this image is a young child holding a balloon and it conveys innocence and youth. On the other hand, the top right image is of an older man. I wanted to show that age had covered the erratic actions of being young. The colours yellow and blue are bold and exciting something that people do not commonly associate with old people. The inspiration from Anzeri's work allowed me to enhance the characteristics of each person and image in order to set a certain tone.
Highlighting Success:

To demonstrate which images are the most successful, I have created a gallery of the best work. I chose these ones of baby images with spirals because I liked the way that the innocence of childhood is heightened through the spiral as it is a very childish design. The other images I thought were most successful were firstly the image of the mother. I thought that the positioning of the thread made it seem like the mother was gushing over her child and makes the identity of this woman being a mother more apparent. Lastly, the image in a school shows hidden identity, as it hides their faces and only shows their uniform.
Second Developments:
Inspiration:

Sewing Process:

Similar to in my first developments, in my second developments, I used old family photographs to sew over. To begin with, I chose the image and printed it in A4 so that I could then sew. I used a 26 mm sewing needle because I did not want something to thin so that the I could not thread the needle. On the other hand, a thicker needle would not have penetrated the paper as well. Next, I researched and chose a design that I liked from Anzeri's work and adapted it for this image. For this specific edit, I wanted to merge two designs the inspiration for this edit is below.
Then, I started sewing and outlined where I was going to sew on the back of the paper using a pencil. I wanted to create two patches using a light coloured thread, to help frame the composition and the face of the person. I used a thread with a diameter of 0.094". This part took me approximately one hour and what I found challenging was to ensure that the space between each stitch was even.
In this image, you can see the outline of where I am going to sew and it shows a front view of the composition. Before beginning the next section, I chose two other colours to sew with that complimented the rose pink colour that I used in the first part of my sewing. The first colour I chose was a magenta thread because I decided to use a range of purple and pink hues to add character to my image. The other color was an indigo purple to add deeper tones to the work.
For the rest of the image, I wanted to use this repetitive zig zag pattern as I felt it contrasted the framing pattern. To do this, I outlined where I was going to sew and started with the purple colour and then repeated the same steps with the magenta. When completing this work, I contemplated bordering the image with a different colour but I did not because I felt like it would have overwhelmed the image.
I finished the embroidery and then photographed the image in natural lighting. I cropped it slightly, changed the saturation and then uploaded it to my website. The final product was successful because not only did it conceal the actual appearance of the lady, the colours brought out character and created a new identity for the person.
Contact Sheet:

This contact sheet outlines all the images that I took of my second development edits. Some of these images have been circled and others have been crossed out. The circled onw I shall edit using photoshop. I chose these images because of the angle they were taken with, medium shot, meaning there is no risk of the composition being cropped out of the photo. Furthermore, they are not underly exposed as these images were taken using a dimmer daylight increasing the risk of more shadows and under exposed images.
Editing Process:

To begin with, I photographed the composition and then using photoshop, I have cropped the image so that the composition is the only thing visible and no background is interfering. Even though I cut it from the image, it is still important to take the photo from a wide angle so that the composition will not be cropped out.
Next, I change some of the properties of the image. This included the contrast of the image, which I lowered to mute the blue undertones. A lower contrast blends lighter and darker areas making the image more neutral toned. I also changed the saturation and desaturated the image slightly. Overall, Maurizio Anzeri's work does not require vast amounts of editing an instead is centered around the patterns created through embroidery.
The colour balance was the last thing I changed because I wanted change the overall mixture of colours. By changing the colour balance one can colour correct the image. I did this for the background because I was not happy with the undertones. Finally, I saved the image as a jpeg and uploaded it to my second developments.
Second Developments:

To further advance my study of Maurizio Anzeri's work, I wanted to create more complex designs and edits. This was because, I started looking in more depth at his work and found photographs with more detailed sewing. I wanted to also increase the amount of thread used in my edits and have less space in between the thread. Furthermore, in these developments I decided to add more engaging patterns because I wanted to show a more textural side to Anzeri's work. These edits reflect some of his more striking work. These images were taken with an f-stop of 1.8, which helps to blur the background and allow the image to focus on specific parts of the photo rather than the whole composition. This is achieved through the wider lens which then can let more light in the lens and allow better focus. To heighten this affect I use an ISO of 32.
Highlighting Success:

The second developments required more time per edit to complete because the designs were more complex. For these edits I didn't want to cover their faces but instead outline certain features to show their ages, features and actions. These were my most successful edits because the threading resulted in striking edits. The first image shows a baby as a jester or clown, referenced through the design to represent the infant's personality. On the other hand, the bottom two images show a more serious person. This is shown through the emphasis on their eyes and the seriousness of their gaze.
Explanation:

Because I used my family photos, I was able to convey the character of the lady I am sewing over. I found out that she was an avid feminist, who joined the suffragette movement. I wanted to show this through the use of colour to manipulate stereotypes. Typically, pinks and purples are seen as 'girly' colours, and that boys cannot like them. Through these edits, I wanted to show that colours cannot be associated with a gender and instead can be favored by anyone. Whilst some may argue that using stereotypically feminine colours, I might undermine the affect of the feminist's movement. However, through using these colours, I wanted to show that no person's character can be defined by a colour. Therefore, I also sewed over a male figure using similar colours to show that they can be liked by anyone. The image I have sewn over is slightly different as I have used different threads because I wanted to add texture to my images. Overall, in these two edits, I wanted to integrate colour neutrally because I think it is important to break stereotypes as they are highly damaging to a community.
Double Exposure:
Editing Process:

For my double exposure edits, I chose edits from my second developments and then continued used photoshop to edit them. I had to crop this image because the background was still visible. After this I also lowered the saturation slightly
To create the multiple exposure effect, I duplicated the background layer and then adjusted the positioning of it. I made sure that the background was still visible because I did not want to overwhelm the image.
Next, I changed the opacity in the properties section. I selected the lighten option, which ensures the duplicated layer blends with the original image so that the composition flows. Next, I rearranged the positioning until I was fully satisfied with the placement. I used a red pen to circle where this option has been applied.
I decided to make this edit multiple exposure rather than just double exposure. To do this, I repeated the editing process by duplicating the layer twice more and then blending it. Finally I cropped the image and saved it.
Double Exposure Edits:

Double exposure, is a process that I originally began using in my unit 1 work. The reason why I decided to repeat this process here is to add ambiguity to the image and make the people in my compositions seem more anonymous. A lot of Maurizio Anzeri's work is focused around concealing the appearance of people and instead showing their identity through embroidery. I reflected on this and then added a section to my second developments, where I further edit them to add to this concept of hidden identity. For my third developments, I am looking to explore more of this artist's modern work and show my addition to this study.
Highlighting Success:

I chose these images to be featured in this gallery because of the effect of multiple exposure. The editing helps to blur the image and show hidden identity. The most successful edit was the baby edit because of the way that despite the many layers, the child's eyes are still very visible and capture the audience's attention. For my third developments, I would want to explore different parts of the body such as legs.
Third Developments:
Gallery Of Inspiration:


In my third developments, I would like to look further at Anzeri's work, but also explore work that does not center around the face. For these edits, I am using different materials. I will take my images and then try to recreate them using thread to mirror the pose. I want to also add thread in different colours to highlight parts of the action in the photograph.

Furthermore, because I am looking photographing legs in my third developments, I would like to integrate elements of Guy Bourdin's work. Bourdin is a French artist Fashion photographer known for his provocative images. He has shot campaigns for the likes of Vogue, Chanel, and Charles Jourdan. His work illustrates intriguing narratives through dramatic effects, cropped compositions and intense colour saturation. He frequently drew inspiration from literature, cinema and art history.
Photoshoot Plan:

Due to the fact that my third developments are very different to both my initial and my second developments, I thought I would make a photoshoot plan because I wanted to show how I plan to conduct this shoot. For this photoshoot I am going to try different styles. Firstly, I would like to take photographs mainly focusing on the legs in the style of Guy Bourdin's work and then sew over them to enhance the personality of the image. After this, I would like to focus on more monochromatic work and possibly look at creating edits on plain white or black paper using contrasting thread. Next, I may try to recreate the images taken using thread to mirror the pose and angling of the legs. Lastly, to make my work more unique, I would like to separate the limbs of some of my photographs and then sew them back together and hang them to create a composition. This would also be referencing my next artist, Lisa Kokin, who sews different people together to show identity. I have drawn here a recreation of Anzeri's work on legs and also a representation of the pose I am going to use in my photoshoot. Through drawing, I am able to make a physical representation of my plan for these developments.

Contact Sheet:

This contact sheet shows all the images that I took for my third developments. I used crosses and circles to show which were successful and which were not. The ones circled are the images that I will go onto edit on photoshop and then print out later for the sewing stages of my third developments. Contact sheets are important as I can see which poses are worth repeating are which do not incorporate both Guy Bourdin's work and Maurizio Anzeri.
Guy Bourdin:
Editing Process:

To begin with I chose images from my contact sheet, opened photoshop and then cropped these images so that the person would be easier to edit and the background was not so obvious.
Next, I duplicated the layer and used the colour picker to select the colour of the background. This means the paint colour will be the right hue of cream and will look more natural in the final product.
Then using the paint brush tool, I shaded in the whole of the image, but made sure that changes were not made to the original layer. I then make the painted layer invisible and return to the background layer to go on to edit the person.
After this, I duplicated the background layer and began using the quick selection tool to make a layer mask. Due to Guy Bourdin's, the artist I am drawing inspiration from, focus on legs, I have only selected the legs for this edit. After this I turn the selection into a mask and rasterize the layer.
Finally, I move the layer mask onto the top layer, the one that is shaded in. I have to then make the top layer visible and am then left with this image. I then save this image to be able to print later. I will now sew over these images and create designs and stitches coming from the legs to recreate Maurizio Anzeri's work.
Edits:

I have used images from my shoot and edited them to only show the legs because firstly I wanted to highlight what I am going to be cutting around or using for sewing. Furthermore, the use of legs shows how Guy Bourdin's influence is blended with these developments. I am going to print these images out and sew over them using black thread initially. After this, I am going to sew over them using coloured thread to reference Bourdin's use of bold colours and Anzeri's use of thread. These images were taken with an f-stop of 1.8, which helps to blur the background and allow the image to focus on specific parts of the photo rather than the whole composition. This is achieved through the wider lens which then can let more light in the lens and allow better focus. To heighten this affect I use an ISO of 32.
Highlighting Success:

Even though these edits are not my third developments, I still thought that it would be important to create a highlighting success because it allows me to better see which images I should print and then sew over. I chose these images because the leg placement looked more natural and would be convenient to sew over. Furthermore, because I want to incorporate Guy Bourdin's photography styles into my work, I had to select images which would appear in his work. Despite the lack of colour currently in the images, these photographs bare resemblance to Bourdin's leg photography as these are poses that would be seen in his work. I would like to carry on working with legs but will try to add more colour.
Creative Process:

For my third developments, I chose to use a variety of materials, including tracing paper, white paper and cut outs. On the left, I recreated images of legs from my photoshoot. I started by cutting out the outline of each pair of legs and stuck them onto a piece of white paper and using black thread recreated their figure. These images show the front and back of each edit. On the other hand, the right side shows another set of edits. For these, I decided to use the silhouettes of three of the images I had printed out form my photoshoot. For these, i filled the inside of each figure using a backstitch and a thin needle and thread. I used tracing paper to make the background translucent and the material slightly different.

Contact Sheet:

After completing different types of edits, I photographed each one using natural lighting and against a white background.Next, I opened photoshop and automated a contact sheet. Using red crosses or circles allowed me to visualise which images I would be able to go onto edit or upload to my website. The images which I selected were mainly because the composition was not cropped and the orientation of the frame meant I would be able to use photoshop and crop them to my liking.
Edits:

For my third developments I created these images which blend the silhouettes of other people, which I cut out to use on separate edits, and sew other figures in uneven arrangements. I wanted to do this to further develop my exploration of Guy Bourdin's work . As an artist, Bourdin frequently photographs legs in unconventional settings or positions, so I created mismatched pairs in these images to represent a different element of his work. In later edits, I would like to return more to my focus on Maurizio Anzeri and the way he shows people's legs through embroidery. These images were taken with an f-stop of 1.8, which helps to blur the background and allow the image to focus on specific parts of the photo rather than the whole composition. This is achieved through the wider lens which then can let more light in the lens and allow better focus. To heighten this affect I use an ISO of 32.

These are another set of edits for my third development, they demonstrate more of Anzeri's work. in my artist gallery for these developments, there are images, similar to these of Anzeri sewing legs. However, there are still elements of Bourdin's art, which I showed in the poses of the images. They are eccentric and appear to be mid movement which show fluidity and in turn make these edits appear more natural.
Earlier on in my website I showed the creative process behind this edit on the right. For these designs, I sewed against tracing paper using a 28 needle and a backstitch. I had to be careful about the isze of each stitch as I did not want any of them to be uneven or overwhelm the images. This made these edits more manicured. I wanted to show more originality in my work so I have focused on different parts of the body such as the whole figure instead of simply just centring my photography around legs.Perhaps in a final outcome I could add a pattern to the legs.

Highlighting Success:

This highlighting success includes all three sets of edits. I chose edits that were the most similar to Anzeri and Guy Bourdin. The edit on the bottom right is the most successful because the sewing looks like the legs pictured beside it. Not only is the stitch neat, but the placement and size of the embroidery is the most similar to the image.On the other hand, the other edits in this gallery are more focused around silhouettes and outlines of figures as I felt this embraced originality.
Multiple Exposure:
Creative Process:

I decided to create multiple exposure edits to advance my work. To begin with I opened photoshop and uploaded an image from my contact sheet.
Next, I duplicate the original layer and rasterize it. I then select the darken button on the dissolve option. This then allows me to see where to move the layer to in order for the edit to show the different layers and multiple exposure.
The multiple layers did change the background and left a line down the sides of the background where the two layers meet. I used the paint tool to blend this and make it appear more natural.
To finish, I cropped the image using the rule of thirds, the centre of the composition was around the middle third both horizontally and vertically. Lastly, I saved the edit as a jpeg file and uploaded it here to my website.
Edits:

The multiple exposure edits are important because they help to show the movement behind the image. The layers make it seem as though each figure has been captured mid movement and instead of being a still photograph, it appears as though the person is still moving despite the fact that it is one image. I have made sure to arrange the layers in a particular orientation, so that they helped to demonstrate this point. I feltt as though this brought more attention to the legs and in turn Guy Bourdin's work whilst also adding a personal idea and originality, the multiple exposure, which would not be commonly seen with these artists.
Highlighting Success:


These were the most impactful edits because they showed fluidity the best. The image on the left makes it seem as though the person is midst kicking in the air whilst similarly the image above creates an illusion of a person being chased, the photographed legs, by this other person, the sewn legs, and that they are midst motion, the multiple layers.
Final Outcome:
Gallery of Inspiration:

For my final outcome, I am looking to add designs such as the ones visible above. I am keen on doing this because not only do these patterns intrigue a viewer, they also highlight the legs and what action they are undertaking. I would like to continue to take inspiration from Guy Bourdin's work as well.
Creative Process:

These edits required a thin needle and thread. I bean by cutting around the legs of printed photographs. The images were from the photoshoot for my third developments. I then glued them onto tracing paper and using a pencil dotted where I wanted the needle to penetrate the paper. This image on the left was created as I wanted to use a vanishing point, where all the lines meet to make a 3D illusion.
For this next edit, I decided to attempt a pattern which would add emphasis to the positioning of the legs and make it appear as though the thread was flowering from the person's hips. I did this by crossing stitches over one another so that a cross, pyramid design occurs. In total this edit has 14 stitches and took around half an hour to create.
The left images pictures the back of all of these edits combined. Something I had to be conscious of was that the tracing paper would easily tear if the needle was inserted at an angle or was not against a sponge material.
The final product of this set of edits is shown here. There is thread connecting all of the legs and I think this shows how each person's legs are interconnected and in turn their identity is linked.
Contact Sheet:

This contact sheet shows the photographs from the photoshoot I did in day light. In the shoot I photographed my final outcome edits sot that I could create a digital copy and be able to edit them where necessary. The circles symbolise which images were well taken, perhaps where the angle is optimum or where the legs have been fully in focus. On the other hand, I have crossed out which images were not so good. This could be where the composition was not fully in frame.
Edits:






My final outcome of Maurizio Anzeri work has more complex, better planned designs. These edits extend my exploration of my third developments, where I introduced another artist, Guy Bourdin. When beginning this artist I looked only at my family's faces and sewing over them using colourful thread. I used this to highlight and conceal certain features. This made their identity more distinct and either recognisable or anonymous. I decided for my third developments, that I would like to instead look more broadly at the artist's work and diverted my attention to his use of legs, which tied with Bourdin's focus. Instead of sewing over the top of faces, he enhanced what was already shown by sewing around the composition. In this final outcome, I was keen to further emphasis the movement and angling of each leg. The stitches resemble Anzeri's more closely and make the legs appear to be moving. These images were taken with an f-stop of 1.8, which helps to blur the background and allow the image to focus on specific parts of the photo rather than the whole composition. This is achieved through the wider lens which then can let more light in the lens and allow better focus. To heighten this affect I use an ISO of 32. For a reshoot, I could perhaps create a gif detailing an undulating wave using thread protruding from a pair of legs. This would extend my exploration of identity through movement.
Highlighting Success:

This highlighting success shows the best images from my final outcome for Maurizio Anzeri. I have chosen these images because of the symmetrical sewing, and the way the thread emphasises the movement of the legs, adding depth and dimension to the work. To improve this, I could look to use multiple exposure edits.
Multiple Exposure Edits:

I used multiple exposure, a editing technique that I have used previously in my Nathan Beard and this artist's work, in order to make these edits more appealing to the eye. I specifically chose to position the added layers to give the impression of one long movement. This adds action, and imitates how Maurizio Anzeri used legs. Furthermore, it links to a previous artist that I studied in my Fantastic and Strange Project: Gjon Mili. He used a slow shutter speed in order to photograph a movement, for example someone walking in one image. Overall, I would say that multiple exposure has helped to highlight the legs and make the photos more eye-catching, very much like Guy Bourdin's art.
Highlighting Success:

I chose these two images to feature in my highlighting success, because they were my most successful edits. The layers blended smoothly, and the point where the added image ends is not visible, like it is in some other edits. If I was to improve this work, I could look at introducing colours, a reference to Bourdin's bold hues, and I cold photograph images more similar to his style and leaning away from Maurizio Anzeri's work.























































































































